We're spent the last couple of nights living in a traditional Mongolian ger (tent-like structure) - the scenery was breath-taking, and the air was breath-able, which is a nice change after smoggy China.
While at the ger we went horse riding, visited a nomad family at their ger, ate some interesting dairy products and made the most of the lovely views.
Unfortunately I'm feeling a bit crook today - early diagnosis was a hangover, but I think it may be a bit more lingering. We have an overnight train to Russia this evening so hopefully a good sleep will make me a bit more lucid and descriptive for my first blog from Russia.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Monday, August 25, 2008
The Closing Ceremony - Bye Bye Beijing
The city very kindly held a massive farewell party for us last night - which was very sweet, but a bit premature as we don't leave until tomorrow morning.
For the last couple of days Claire and I have been seeing the last few sights on our to-do list. We've seen the old - Ming Tombs, Lama Temple, Mao, who was as orange as a supermarket cooked chook - and the new - the Birds Nest, the Water Cube, CCTV building. We also met the people from our tour group - there are 8 of us in total, all Kiwis, Aussies and Poms.
Things I will miss about China:
- Cheep taxis and cheep beer: a cheerful combination that I sadly underutilised.
- Having Claire's language and culture skillz: making everything that little bit easier, or crazier.
- Anything with redbean paste in it.
Things I won't miss about China:
- The location of our current hotel: it's about 40km from the city centre, lucky we're only here a couple of nights.
- Locals wanting photos with us: it's one thing to go visit tourist attractions, it's rather embarrassing when you constantly become one.
- MSG: It's. In. Everything.
For the last couple of days Claire and I have been seeing the last few sights on our to-do list. We've seen the old - Ming Tombs, Lama Temple, Mao, who was as orange as a supermarket cooked chook - and the new - the Birds Nest, the Water Cube, CCTV building. We also met the people from our tour group - there are 8 of us in total, all Kiwis, Aussies and Poms.
Things I will miss about China:
- Cheep taxis and cheep beer: a cheerful combination that I sadly underutilised.
- Having Claire's language and culture skillz: making everything that little bit easier, or crazier.
- Anything with redbean paste in it.
Things I won't miss about China:
- The location of our current hotel: it's about 40km from the city centre, lucky we're only here a couple of nights.
- Locals wanting photos with us: it's one thing to go visit tourist attractions, it's rather embarrassing when you constantly become one.
- MSG: It's. In. Everything.
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Goodness, Gracious, Great Wall of China
Yesterday Claire and I took a day trip north of Tianjin to visit the Great Wall.
We spent a lovely three hours on the train there chatting to some students and miming to their parents. When we arrived in Ji Xian we were met by our guide Diana and our cavalier chauffeur, Mr Wong. It was a 30 minute drive through the lush green country side to the wall at Gyuan - actually, it probably should have taken longer, but Mr Wong had a rather lax interpretation of the road rules as do many of the drivers around China.
The wall was amazing, we were right in the middle of a valley and it went soaring up among the jagged mountains to either side of us. Diana accompanied us most of the way up but had to turn around at the last bit, which I thought was fair enough considering that she was trying to do it in high heels. The final section was so steep that I climbed it using all fours, and had to crab crawl back down. It was worth it though, the view was spectacular and we were pretty much the only people there.
After the climb we ate lunch, saw a few temples in town and then Diana put us on a bus home. The bus was a decrepit mini-van and most of the trip was spent chugging along at about 30 km/h. It was the worst bus trip ever, but it was fascinating to see the effects of rampant growth on rural and sub-urban China. As we got closer to Tianjin we passed the factory workers spilling out after their shifts, heading home on their bikes or stopping to eat at roadside carts.
By time we made it back to the hostel, over 3 and a half hours later, we were caked in dust. We washed and decided to head out for dinner. Claire took me to a restaurant so that I could try lots of authentic Chinese dishes. We had Sichuan hot-pot, Peking duck, sweet and sour pork, and lamp (lamb) skewers. It was all incredibly tasty - but never fear, it was all at a Buddhist vegetarian restaurant so it was fake meat!
Today we meet the group we'll be travelling the Trans-Mongolian with, which means heading back to Beijing on the express train - travelling about 350km/h, it should be snappier than yesterday's bus ride.
We spent a lovely three hours on the train there chatting to some students and miming to their parents. When we arrived in Ji Xian we were met by our guide Diana and our cavalier chauffeur, Mr Wong. It was a 30 minute drive through the lush green country side to the wall at Gyuan - actually, it probably should have taken longer, but Mr Wong had a rather lax interpretation of the road rules as do many of the drivers around China.
The wall was amazing, we were right in the middle of a valley and it went soaring up among the jagged mountains to either side of us. Diana accompanied us most of the way up but had to turn around at the last bit, which I thought was fair enough considering that she was trying to do it in high heels. The final section was so steep that I climbed it using all fours, and had to crab crawl back down. It was worth it though, the view was spectacular and we were pretty much the only people there.
After the climb we ate lunch, saw a few temples in town and then Diana put us on a bus home. The bus was a decrepit mini-van and most of the trip was spent chugging along at about 30 km/h. It was the worst bus trip ever, but it was fascinating to see the effects of rampant growth on rural and sub-urban China. As we got closer to Tianjin we passed the factory workers spilling out after their shifts, heading home on their bikes or stopping to eat at roadside carts.
By time we made it back to the hostel, over 3 and a half hours later, we were caked in dust. We washed and decided to head out for dinner. Claire took me to a restaurant so that I could try lots of authentic Chinese dishes. We had Sichuan hot-pot, Peking duck, sweet and sour pork, and lamp (lamb) skewers. It was all incredibly tasty - but never fear, it was all at a Buddhist vegetarian restaurant so it was fake meat!
Today we meet the group we'll be travelling the Trans-Mongolian with, which means heading back to Beijing on the express train - travelling about 350km/h, it should be snappier than yesterday's bus ride.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Curse of the Cankle
After three days of walking around in my sneakers in the oppressive heat, my ankles have turned bright red and swollen so that from calf to foot is one straight line. It's rather sensitive to touch and looks like scars from stepping into a deepfrier as a child.
To alleviate the pain, Claire and I took bikes around Tianjin today. Tianjin is East of Beijing, but equally flat. Riding here is a pleasure, even on the clunky pink single speeder that I christened Lui-Xi for the day. Bike helmets are non-existent and road rules are much the same -The jaywalking policeman was a particular highlight. Bikes have their own lane completely separated from cars, so all together it was a delight to peddle around.
We rode out to the Olympics stadium, where soccer finals have been held. We also visited some temples and old streets around town to do some shopping. Claire is a demon bargainer - she's so ruthless that when we went to the supermarket I was afraid she was even going to haggle with the register attendant...
The swelling and redness has started to go down on my ankles, but they still look rather nasty. Nothing a few quiet days can't fix.
To alleviate the pain, Claire and I took bikes around Tianjin today. Tianjin is East of Beijing, but equally flat. Riding here is a pleasure, even on the clunky pink single speeder that I christened Lui-Xi for the day. Bike helmets are non-existent and road rules are much the same -The jaywalking policeman was a particular highlight. Bikes have their own lane completely separated from cars, so all together it was a delight to peddle around.
We rode out to the Olympics stadium, where soccer finals have been held. We also visited some temples and old streets around town to do some shopping. Claire is a demon bargainer - she's so ruthless that when we went to the supermarket I was afraid she was even going to haggle with the register attendant...
The swelling and redness has started to go down on my ankles, but they still look rather nasty. Nothing a few quiet days can't fix.
Monday, August 18, 2008
Cool People: Beijing
The Waterman who runs the small shop across from our hostel who has sold me much much water in this hot hot heat (special mention to Claire for teaching me how to ask for it in Mandarin).
The Security Guards who scan your luggage, no matter how big or small, at every subway station. None have shown the slightest concern at my Swiss Army Card - although I'm not sure how much damage I could wreak with it anyway...
Dowager Empress CiXi for building the Summer Palace on the outskirts of Beijing in the late 19th century. I could not think of a finer waste of funds intended for use by the navy.
The Security Guards who scan your luggage, no matter how big or small, at every subway station. None have shown the slightest concern at my Swiss Army Card - although I'm not sure how much damage I could wreak with it anyway...
Dowager Empress CiXi for building the Summer Palace on the outskirts of Beijing in the late 19th century. I could not think of a finer waste of funds intended for use by the navy.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Ni Hao from China
The two most exciting things to tell you from the outset are:
1. I'm wearing shorts and my poor pale legs are finally liberated from a chilly winter of being stockinged.
2. While sitting here typing this my sister is sitting next to me - I now have her back to amuse me.
The flight over was fine, I had a seat next to me free so just slept a lot, and watched Kung Fu Panda to get me in the Cino frame of mind. The flight from Melb to Syd was only delayed by 30 minutes, and it didn't blow up, so it was a pretty good service from Qantas all up.
Sight seeing today involved the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, both being on a scale really beyond comprehension - the pain in my feet after a day of walking being the most reliable measure of their scale. We tried to go to a restaurant from the Lonely Planet for lunch - but the whole street had been leveled and rebuild, and all the shops were empty. It was unsettling thinking about all the people who use to live there, and wondering where they now were. We also attempted to see the Underground city, but they were 'closed for repairs for the Olympics' and would 'maybe open next year.' Walking back to the station, the same unsettling feeling returned.
The women's marathon was on today - we were lucky enough to see one of the runners go past as we were crossing Tiananmen square. I didn't see what country she was from, and she appeared to be last, but we cheered for her anyway because anyone silly enough to run in this weather deserves a clap.
Still, it is an amazing city, a low-rise sprawl with no real centre. Claire's cultural insights and nifty Mandarin have been invaluable, and I'll be making the most of both over the next 9 days or so. She knows how to buy me water, and she bargains like a devil. She also keeps finding me interesting food to eat - including my favourite so far which is a pancake that is somewhere between a roti and an ommette.
1. I'm wearing shorts and my poor pale legs are finally liberated from a chilly winter of being stockinged.
2. While sitting here typing this my sister is sitting next to me - I now have her back to amuse me.
The flight over was fine, I had a seat next to me free so just slept a lot, and watched Kung Fu Panda to get me in the Cino frame of mind. The flight from Melb to Syd was only delayed by 30 minutes, and it didn't blow up, so it was a pretty good service from Qantas all up.
Sight seeing today involved the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, both being on a scale really beyond comprehension - the pain in my feet after a day of walking being the most reliable measure of their scale. We tried to go to a restaurant from the Lonely Planet for lunch - but the whole street had been leveled and rebuild, and all the shops were empty. It was unsettling thinking about all the people who use to live there, and wondering where they now were. We also attempted to see the Underground city, but they were 'closed for repairs for the Olympics' and would 'maybe open next year.' Walking back to the station, the same unsettling feeling returned.
The women's marathon was on today - we were lucky enough to see one of the runners go past as we were crossing Tiananmen square. I didn't see what country she was from, and she appeared to be last, but we cheered for her anyway because anyone silly enough to run in this weather deserves a clap.
Still, it is an amazing city, a low-rise sprawl with no real centre. Claire's cultural insights and nifty Mandarin have been invaluable, and I'll be making the most of both over the next 9 days or so. She knows how to buy me water, and she bargains like a devil. She also keeps finding me interesting food to eat - including my favourite so far which is a pancake that is somewhere between a roti and an ommette.
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Vis a Vis Visas
Thank you for finding my blog, and welcome aboard.
I received my Chinese tourist visa the other day, which means that I'm all set, immigration clearance-wise.
Departure is August 16. First stop: Beijing, smack bang in the middle of Olympamania.
I received my Chinese tourist visa the other day, which means that I'm all set, immigration clearance-wise.
Departure is August 16. First stop: Beijing, smack bang in the middle of Olympamania.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)